Milan Fashion Week’s Fall/Winter 2023 season has officially come to an end, but this season’s offering has opened minds to a host of emerging trends that we can expect to see in the future.
The Italian capital of fashion has hosted some of the biggest names in fashion to present their latest collections to industry leaders, international creatives and more. In addition, dozens of centuries-old brands have created their own interpretations of luxury, from the homage to the House of Gucci to Ferragamo’s tailoring masterclass.
This season, Milanese designers have chosen to push traditional boundaries with gender-defying looks, informed by a new rulebook. Several trendsetters hopped from runway to runway, seeing outlandish furry footwear at GCDS, while Gucci showcased animalistic variations of its classic leather sandals. Reimagined office wear dominated nearly every window, supplied ripped by MM6 Maison Margiela and endlessly zipped by Tokyo James.
For FW23, fur sets proved to be a staple and walked in delicate shades of green in Jil Sander’s futuristic showcase and teddy bear versions in Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta. Meanwhile, motorsport has inspired many, including Ferrari, which has defined its own luxury universe.
Keep reading to discover the Hypebeast roundup of the biggest trends at Milan Fashion Week FW23.
Officecore looks at the business
As the Covid-19 pandemic fades and WFH regulations ease, global workforces prepare to relaunch canon in the office. As a result, workers everywhere, from New York’s Wall Street lawyers to London’s creative transformers, have returned forever to routine office activities. Symbolizing a new dawn, the officecore trend is on the rise, establishing its dominance at multiple shows at Milan Fashion Week.
As one of the most anticipated shows of the week, Bottega Veneta focused on updated tailoring and imposing proportions that predicted the brand’s pivot into the future. Perfectly sectioned pinstripe coats were paired with patterned shirts and leather ties, while ostrich leather ensembles redefined the traditional office uniform with a contemporary perspective.
At Ferragamo, asymmetrical suits sported cutouts to reveal a second layer underneath, while wool versions sported checkered decorations combined with ultra-short hems and removable hoods. What’s more, Ferrari offered a distinctive approach, featuring racing-inspired fits with padded accents and nylon jackets cinched at the waist. Finally, Prada by Raf Simons featured basic suede blazers and formal skirts adorned with paper-like flowers in neutral tones.
all fur
As fashion moves into a more sustainable realm, designers are following suit with faux animal fur renditions that mimic the real thing. Cozy Maines proved to be a seasonal focal point, lining metallic outerwear at SUNNEI and embracing bleached styles at Gucci.
While the latter looked to their archive for inspiration, the dynamic design team provided flowing, long-sleeved gowns in vibrant blue fur, hair-encrusted evening gowns, and an array of elegant coats outlined with colorful animal linings. Additionally, GCDS framed suede jackets with tonal sherpa while manipulating the material to create moss-like compositions that clung to models like vests alongside mythical floor length coats from another land.
Motorsport looks are on their own track
During the FW23 season, designers embraced the adrenaline that comes with motorsport. From motocross to racing, Milan Fashion Week has welcomed the unknown, offering clothes with a definite edge.
Jil Sander provided fashion fans with a futuristic offering dominated by sleek leather looks, many featuring fearless combinations with embossed branding and matching gloves. Elsewhere, fruit-print ensembles were paired with long accessories and protective balaclavas for a layer of protection while on the move. Ferrari featured filled-in variations of classic sporty silhouettes, while Ferragamo opted for elevated leather pairs with red underlining and race-ready nylon units.
Designers go back to the roots
Milan Fashion Week acts as a stage for the world’s most prominent designers to present extravagant creations, and FW23 proved to be an exciting season for all. Brands, creative directors and designers worked together to honor their native House codes by taking a journey into the past.
For Maximilian Davis’ second year collection with Ferragamo, the designer strengthened the Florentine Maison’s connection to old Hollywood by returning to the brand’s prime time in the 1950s. gave them a new lease of life through modern redesigns. Casual looks and sporty details were kept at the forefront, while bright accents and oversized bags echoed Ferragamo’s future prospects.
On the other hand, Gucci’s in-house design team presented its second collection after the departure of Alessandro Michele – the last before the debut of Sabato De Sarno in September. Alongside dozens of creatives who have been with the brand for decades, the team chose to revitalize the classic Gucci uniform drawn from previous collections and reflected on their journey thus far to start a new chapter. By honoring their creative process, the team delivered laid-back outfits, historic ball gowns and antique fur outfits that defined the line.
Take a look at the top trends from Milan Fashion Week’s FW23 above.
Elsewhere, Nicholas Daley’s FW23 “Roots to Rebel” is an ode to post-war Britain.