This week, fashion was in full swing. London Fashion Week came to an end and, amidst standout shows from the likes of Mowalola, Christopher Kane and Chet Lo, Daniel Lee emerged with his debut collection at the helm of Burberry. By honoring the house’s history, the designer has effectively put the fashion house’s heritage into an entirely new path. After the end of LFW, the second half of the week saw Milan Fashion Week kick off, with a series of stellar shows from brands including Prada, Gucci and Diesel.
Off the catwalk, Lee’s alma mater Bottega Veneta (now run by Matthieu Blazy) has returned to social media on popular Chinese platform Weibo. The brand had gone on hiatus across all platforms since 2021, when Lee completely tore up the label’s social media footprint. Meanwhile, Aimé Leon Dore revealed his Spring/Summer 2023 lookbook; Stüssy discovered a new denim collaboration with Levi’s, and H&M announced that Mugler would be its next collaborating designer.
Below, Hypebeast has rounded up the week’s top fashion stories so you can stay up-to-date on industry trends.
Daniel Lee debuted at Burberry
After leaving Bottega Veneta in 2021, Daniel Lee made his debut at the helm of Burberry earlier this week, with a Fall/Winter 2023 collection that set a new tone for the brand.
The collection saw the return of Burberry Prorsum, the fashion house’s archival logo that reappeared boldly on dresses and hid comfortably among historic plaid motifs on a variety of silhouettes. Speaking of plaid, the designer said goodbye to all of the brand’s typical Nova Check patterns and instead opted for expanded iterations that commanded fitted shirts, baggy pants, billowy coats, and more.
Elsewhere, many silhouettes highlighted the roses, with a T-shirt saying, “Not all roses are red.” Dresses were made from multicolored feathers, while larger versions took on breastplates on the upper constructions. Lee also debuted several new accessories for Burberry, which has long been in need of a quintessential bag. Among them, several arrived in leather, faux fur and metal.
See Daniel Lee’s full debut Burberry collection here.
Bottega Veneta is back on social media
Since its abrupt disappearance from all platforms two years ago, Bottega Veneta has opted to forego a social media presence altogether. In lieu of Reels, TikToks and Stories, the Italian fashion house previously experimented with a proprietary iPhone app, in which it shared content that led to the debut of creative director Matthieu Blazy at the helm of Bottega – but his cleanup of mainstream feeds remained very real.
Now, in as stealthy an entrance as an exit, the Kering-owned label has quietly returned to social media — not Instagram, TikTok or Twitter, but the popular Chinese social media app, Weibo.
There, the brand posted several teaser videos for its upcoming Fall/Winter 2023 collection, which garnered over 2.5 million views, 2,200 likes, and over 250 comments, ahead of the start of the show on March 2. accounts and @newbottega, a fan account for the label with over 1.2 million followers on Instagram. At the time of writing, Bottega’s official Weibo account has amassed over 3,500 followers.
Prada, Gucci, Diesel and more invaded Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week is in full swing, with top Italian labels releasing their latest cuts for the Fall/Winter 2023 season. Diesel first stole viewers’ attention, with a collection that was “ripped, oiled and sexually protected”, like Hypebeast said. Prada followed, with an elegant line that redefined formal wear under the moniker “Recycling Beauty”. Meanwhile, MM6 Maison Margiela prioritized deconstruction and unconventional layering.
GCDS also put on a show, with a lineup that escaped into the world of Alice in Wonderland. On Friday, Gucci entered a new era with its Fall 2023 collection, which marked the brand’s last show before Sabato De Sarno’s debut as creative director.
Catch up on Hypebeast’s coverage of Milan Fashion Week here.
Aimé Leon Dore released his spring/summer 2023 lookbook
Aimé Leon Dore presented his Spring/Summer 2023 lookbook, featuring a collection galvanized by the lifestyle and beauty of the Greek islands.
Creative director Teddy Santis, who grew up in Queens in a Greek family, looked to the colors of the Aegean Sea and Salnd Island environments for the collection’s color palette. The brand’s warm weather line includes a variety of fabrics, graphics, prints and branded motifs. Seasonal materials include leather, suede, mesh, selvedge denim, wool, silk and cashmere, among others.
The collection includes outerwear, suits, denim apparel, outerwear, shirts and T-shirts, plus a bevy of headgear. Among the highlights are a sheepskin running jacket, a brown double-breasted suit, a knit cycling shirt and a new range of New Era hats.
The Aimé Leon Dore Spring/Summer 2023 collection is now available at the Aimé Leon Dore flagship store (61 Crosby Street, New York, NY 10012), at the Aimé Leon Dore London flagship store (32 Broadwick St. London, UK W1F 8JB), as well as on the brand’s website.
Stüssy and Levi’s reveal a new denim collaboration
Stüssy and Levi’s announced their latest collaboration earlier this week, featuring a pair of 501® jeans and a modified Type II Trucker jacket – two exclusive Levi’s silhouettes re-imagined in Stüssy’s iconic design codes.
The 501® Jeans arrive in an aged indigo wash, with an original fit and straight leg. Styled with five pockets and a signature button with co-branded temples, the silhouette prioritizes utility while celebrating time-up. Elsewhere, the pants feature an embossed Stüssy and Levi motif on the front left and rear right legs.
The Type II Trucker Jacket, meanwhile, appears in an identical wash, with a modified boxy fit. The outer construction features relaxed arms, additional welt pockets and a corduroy collar, while the inner lining displays Stüssy’s iconic eight-ball logo.
The collection is now available for purchase on the brands’ websites.
S&P cut adidas debt rating as earnings tumble
Following reports that adidas’ revenue was projected to decline by $1.29 billion thanks to unsold YEEZY inventory, S&P Global Ratings lowered its long-term and short-term credit rating for adidas from A+ to A-.
“Adidas faces a myriad of business challenges, including the termination of its partnership with Yeezy, continued competitive pressures in the Chinese market and a contraction in consumer demand in Western countries,” S&P Global Ratings said in a public release.
Notably, YEEZY products accounted for 5% of the brand’s total sales in 2021 and the percentage was expected to increase to 7% last year before the partnership ended.
“The numbers speak for themselves. We are currently not performing as well as we should,” said adidas CEO Bjørn Gulden in a press release earlier this month. “2023 will be a transition year to set the foundations to become a growing and profitable company again. We will put the full focus on the consumer, our athletes, our retail partners and our adidas employees.”
H&M chose Mugler for its next designer collaboration
Fast fashion giant H&M has joined forces with Mugler for its upcoming designer collaboration, launching online and in select retail locations this spring.
The capsule collection, created by H&M creative consultant Ann-Sofie Johansson and Mugler creative director Casey Cadwallader, will mark the latest in H&M’s range of high-low teams. The Swedish brand started its high fashion collaborations in 2004 with a Karl Lagerfeld collection. Since then, H&M has launched collections with Stella McCartney, Moschino, Maison Margiela, Balmain, Isabel Marant, Comme des Garçons, Lanvin, Versace, Simon Rocha and Giambattista Valli.
H&M is trying to boost sales after reports said its operating profit for the quarter ended November last year fell to $79.2 million, down from $603.6 million a year earlier, according to Fashion Business. The brand’s designer collaborations have been known to sell out quickly, with hour-long queues forming outside its flagship stores. The fast-fashion retailer will likely see a boost from its Mugler collaboration, which now exists at the forefront of fashion thanks to the direction of Cadwallader and a host of celebrity fans, including Kylie Jenner, Dua Lipa and Cardi B.