Inside Gap Inc’s Development Program. for New Design Talents

A skills gap continues to grow for emerging talent looking to break into today’s fashion job market. Already a highly competitive job market, entry-level job specifications often specify skills that far exceed entry-level experience or postgraduate training. This skills gap appears even greater for talent emerging from typically underrepresented identities in the workplace, as detailed … Read more

Valentino and McQueen: Serious Business

PARIS — Earlier this week, private equity firm L Catterton took a majority stake in esteemed French brand APC. Terms of the deal were not disclosed, but it seems safe to assume it was a huge loss of money. APC denims are loved around the world. On Sunday afternoon, Jean and Judith Touitou, Sr. and … Read more

Nina Ricci and Ann Demeulemeester: designer debuts, different challenges

PARIS — Nina Ricci and Ann Demeulemeester revealed the visions of their newly installed designers this weekend at Paris Fashion Week. But while both brands have attracted young and social media-savvy creators with gender-fluid sensibilities, the missions they face couldn’t be more different. At Nina Ricci, Spanish fragrance and fashion group Puig says it selected … Read more

Tear Up and Start Over: Why We Love Comme des Garçons, Junya and Noir

PARIS — Backstage after her shows, Rei Kawakubo usually gives a nod, or at most a tentative handshake, to acknowledge a congratulatory comment, but after Saturday’s performance, she seemed happy to elaborate on the typically gnomic statement she was offered. as the show’s manifesto. That was it: “A feeling of wanting to return to the … Read more

To the moon and back with Off-White

To sample Ibrahim Kamara’s rare gifts as a fashion stylist, look no further than the March issue of Vogue Italia, with its remarkable portfolio of a transformed Gisele Bündchen. Makeovers are what Kamara does best, not just remaking supermodels but also enhancing the vision of designers like Riccardo Tisci, Erdem and Virgil Abloh. Now, he’s … Read more

New definitions of preciousness in Paris

PARIS — The best antidote to fashion waste is to make clothes precious so you don’t feel like replacing them. But what makes clothes precious? Nothing as banal as a price tag, although nice fabric and make-up clearly help. I’m a dreamer, so it’s the life of cherished clothes that makes them precious to me. … Read more

Dior and Saint Laurent: Twilight of the Gods?

PARIS — Far be it from me to analyze a designer’s psychological state, but it seemed to me that Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello were responding to a dark world in their latest collections. Think of them as coping strategies. This certainly added a different weight to the work. Chiuri’s focus … Read more

Armani, Bally, Ferragamo: the last days in Milan

MILAN — If Tomo Koizumi’s clouds (and caterpillar) of effervescent color were the exclamation point at the end of Milan Fashion Week for next fall, Giorgio Armani’s collection was the bronze glow. He named it “Cipria”, which translates as “face powder”, and explains why the models were put on with a clear emphasis on the … Read more