Women’s Fashion Week ended in Milan on Monday.
Here are some of the trends that have emerged for Fall-Winter 2023-2024 – a return to elegance underscored by cut and quality, chic sensuality and understated classicism with a touch of eccentric spice.
elegant suits
Italian fashion houses abandoned sporty designs and streetwear for elegant, classically cut suits in refined fabrics.
The pants are long and cover the shoes. Oversized jackets with wide shoulders made way for classic cuts – waist, belt or gathered at the back.
Dolce & Gabbana showed suits with cropped jackets, killer style, or long, but structured with a wasp waist.
Fendi opted for slimline jackets with a single row of buttons, understated collars with lapels and a deconstructed masculine vest.
Ferragamo had high-waisted silhouettes reminiscent of 1950s Hollywood divas.
Max Mara’s coats are gathered in the back, Tod’s jackets are belted or belted, while Moschino opted for pied-de-poule suits and gold buttons à la Chanel.
winter lingerie
The effects of climate change were felt on the podiums in Milan, where the winter collections were diaphanous and revealing, and lingerie in great evidence.
Dolce & Gabbana claimed the trend, displaying a corset with a label with the creation date – 1991. Its collection was almost entirely composed of black underwear.
Fendi layered dolls over poplin shirts.
Roberto Cavalli took care of the theme, with long hippie versions in silk and velvet.
Gucci opted for jewelry micro bras and underwear visible through sheer petticoats.
yeti coats
Yeti-style wraparound coats in furry or feathery fabrics also took the podium – a necessary addition to skimpy underwear for those hoping not to catch death from the cold.
Gucci offered Cruella Deville and blue faux fur. Roberto Cavalli’s faux fur is an art lesson imitating nature.
There were red feathers at Dolce & Gabbana, multicolored feathers at Moschino.
Max Mara’s signature teddy bear coats are ultra-comfortable. MSGM varied the theme in mauve, lime and white boucle, with fringes or long hair.
Ferragamo’s iterations come in pearl gray or flaming red.
Red and black
While black was everywhere, there was still a thread of red to liven it up, in every shade from scarlet to burgundy.
Ferrari, which has launched a ready-to-wear collection, has retained its iconic red but kept it understated, lining coats in muted tones or in black-edged robe swatches.
Dolce & Gabbana went head-to-toe scarlet — sheer red tights, red sandals, red dresses, red bags, red gloves, red lipstick.
Ferragamo added vermilion to minidresses and used it in splashes on the black, in the Bakelite button to brighten a black dress, and in the seam of a black suit. MSGM selected raspberry red for a dress that hugged the rounded contours of a pregnant model.
The skirts of Prada’s leather suits are scarlet, while Fendi demonstrated once again how well red goes with electric pink.
Uniforms and utility clothing
Prada pioneered this trend, transforming the white of nurses’ uniforms into long shirts with short tails and the severe, old-fashioned capes of World War II operators.
The collection’s official trousers, worn with ties, are form-fitting, and its tights are high-waisted for a feminine touch. There were aviator jackets at Tod’s and leather officer belts with pockets.
Fendi’s approach to utilitarian clothing involved adding aprons to pants or deconstructing blue work overalls. (AFP)